Want To Build A PC...HELP!

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Okay, I got a guy who is going to teach me how to build a PC. All I have to do is get the parts.

I don't want to overspend so what do I need and where's the best place to go to get what I need?

Thanks.
  • Profile picture of the author Enfusia
    Tiger direct is not bad because you're talking about 1 pc. Generally one of anything does not qualify for wholesale.

    You can get "you build it" kits for just about any PC but not generally laptops.

    Or you can buy pieces.

    For one unit that's what I would do.

    Patrick
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  • Profile picture of the author KimW
    Steven,
    First you need to decide on either price OR quality.
    If price is the major factor,set the limit then go pice by piece on what you fee you want versus what you need.
    Tiger Direct as suggested is ok,but I prefer Newegg myself.
    But to be honest,your guy that is going to teach you to build it should be helping you from cenception to finished pc.
    I used to have a checklist I would give every customer that wanted me to custom build them a computer.I will see if I can find it and send it to you if I do,but in the meantime feel free to ask me any questions.
    Kim
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  • Profile picture of the author Kurt
    Do you have a Fry's electronics and/or PC recycling centers in your area?

    Craigslist is another option.
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  • Profile picture of the author KimW
    I may have understood. Do you just want to build "a" computer just to do it, or do you want to build a fairly decent computer for your own personal use?
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    • Profile picture of the author Joe Mobley
      Kim brings up a good question. Until that is addressed we can't really make a good recommendation.

      My PC building days are over. The price difference is negligible. New computers come with OS, drivers, hardware, etc. installed and configured. Oh my god... and a warranty.

      Saving 12 cents per hour to figure out if a video driver works with a certain motherboard. Ah... probably not.

      But hey, that's just me.

      Joe Mobley



      Originally Posted by KimW View Post

      I may have understood. Do you just want to build "a" computer just to do it, or do you want to build a fairly decent computer for your own personal use?
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      • Profile picture of the author Steven Wagenheim
        Thanks for all the responses. The reason I want to build a PC is so I know how
        to do it. I don't want to be at the mercy of a PC tech if something should go
        wrong. I want to be self sufficient with this stuff. Right now, I couldn't even
        replace the memory in my PC if I had to. I am totally incompetent when it comes
        to this stuff.

        Therefore, the PC I build doesn't have to be a top end unit. But it does have
        to be representative of the PC I'm using now for my business so that when the
        PC I'm using goes, I'll be able to replace whatever needs to be replaced.

        That is my motivation for doing this. Just wanted to clear that up.
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        • Profile picture of the author seasoned
          Originally Posted by Steven Wagenheim View Post

          Thanks for all the responses. The reason I want to build a PC is so I know how
          to do it. I don't want to be at the mercy of a PC tech if something should go
          wrong. I want to be self sufficient with this stuff. Right now, I couldn't even
          replace the memory in my PC if I had to. I am totally incompetent when it comes
          to this stuff.

          Therefore, the PC I build doesn't have to be a top end unit. But it does have
          to be representative of the PC I'm using now for my business so that when the
          PC I'm using goes, I'll be able to replace whatever needs to be replaced.

          That is my motivation for doing this. Just wanted to clear that up.
          OK, THAT was what I thought! Yeah, you might gain an understanding of how everything ties together. Some salespeople will have really weird theories, etc... and some people fall for them. You may glean enough to see that, and become more aware of it. These days, most PCs probably are pretty similar. in that way.

          Maybe you can look closer at the BIOS, specs, etc... Some people earlier had problems, and paid more, because of slow memory and overclocked CPUs, for example. Had they known the CPU, and checked to board clocking, and the memory specs, and checked the wait states, they could save the money.

          Steve
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  • Profile picture of the author seasoned
    If you go to fry's, WATCH OUT! Those guys are IDIOTS! AND, ****NEVER**** ******NEVER****** ******************NEVER************** buy "OEM" memory from them! THEY will tell you that OEM memory is bad! Well, IBM, DELL, TOSHIBA, ETC.... use OEM memory. If you want to know the TRUTH, bring along a guy with even a MODEST understanding of high scale integration CPUs, and have them watch the employees pack, and handle the OEM memory. They handle things by the pins, throw them around, and aren't even grounded!

    Tiger seems to be good, and many like new egg. Fry's may be OK if you buy MANUFACTURER packed components, but OEM costs less and is better for the environment. WHY? Because it is packed in BULK! That means it costs less to pack and ship, and doesn't have fancy packaging. The price savings may not be as much now, but you used to be able to save like 70% over many manufacturers.

    BTW computers today can vary a lot. Hopefully you have reason to believe that the guy that will help you is more than a one hit wonder.

    Price can vary GREATLY! It can go from maybe a little over $100 to well into the thousands. You have to determine what speed/quality you need, and WHERE. You can get maybe 4GB, which is PLENTY for most, and save a couple hundred. You can get a low end board and save more. You likely don't need a video card, or really ANY I/O, since it may all be built into the board. You can get a nice little case, and a 1TB drive and have a nice system on the cheap. Don't be scared of things like large drives. 1TB drives can be VERY cheap!

    RESEARCH IT! Some boards are TOTALLY incompatible with other parts. Drives, cases, monitors, memory, CPU compatibility, ALL vary a LOT. Some mother boards may even be physically able to hook to a CPU but the settings and BIOS may not support it.

    So if you buy a particular motherboard, you have to make sure it is compatible with the case, CPU, and memory, and if it isn't compatible with your monitor and/or drives, you will need to buy new cards.

    I'm not trying to scare you, I just want to let you know. If you want the experience, and the savings, tiger DOES have kits! THEY picked the parts, and are there to help, but YOU assemble it!

    Steve
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  • Profile picture of the author KimW
    Most kits are low end though. You are getting what you pay for. Buyer Beware.
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    • Profile picture of the author seasoned
      Originally Posted by KimW View Post

      Most kits are low end though. You are getting what you pay for. Buyer Beware.
      They have some higher end kits too! But YEAH, you have to do research and determine what you need, etc... I mean you COULD get the latest i5 or i7 at the highest clock speed but, last knew, that could add hundreds to the price. You COULD get a high end graphics card, but THAT could cost hundreds. You could get VERY high speed Raid 5 drives with 1TB drives, but that would cost hundreds more.

      YEAH, I am pushing things a bit, but I am showing how cuts in the right areas could save money.

      I just don't want steven to pick out parts, and find they aren't compatible. What I would do is try to find a board that seems to have potential for the case I want, and buy the parts around it. And go to the manufacturers site for the motherboard. Some salespeople don't know what they are talking about.

      Steve
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  • Profile picture of the author KimW
    You are definitely right Steve,most sales people don't know much about buillding a pc. And I am with you ,I don't wqant Steven to get crap parts either.I guess he could contact either one of us if he wants to run stuff by us before he puts the money down.
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  • Profile picture of the author waterotter
    Once you know what you need, there are many reputable sellers on eBay that sell brand new parts/components. Find them, then browse their store - check out their feedback etc. Many sellers carry brand new parts. But, like anything, do your due diligence.
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  • Profile picture of the author KimW
    Steven,
    Clear as mud.
    So, you do want one you can actually use for work more than pleasure?
    IE,Your IM versus music making?

    And if something does wrong you can troubleshoot and fix yourself
    Doing a build will get you started on the way,but it will still take a lot to get to the point of doing it all alone.

    The first thing I'd recommend is sit down and decide what you will use it most for.
    That ,as Steve pointed out,can dictate a lot of how you proceed.

    For example,if its mosstly for work, and you mostly write, you won't need a powerhouse.
    But if you want to do music,then research the specs of the programs you use now and might in the future.

    I've always been a gamer,so almost every build I have done has focused mainly on a decent,yet not top of the line processor ( save some $$s going mid range) pretty close to top of the line memory,and for memory I use that to mean that with the least amount of known issues, and again,so save some $$s, medium to high end video.

    And all this has to go into a case that will have good circulation to keep the temperature of everything in the case down,plus it needs to be put in a motherboard where everything works together.

    There is a lot of new changes since I last did a build.
    I hear USB3 is out now. That instead of IDE or SATA,that now there are solid state hard drives,but I've also heard since its newer technology,once again,its the higher priced spread.

    Processors;do you like Intel,the old standby,or are you willing to save a few bucks again by going AMD?

    You will need to by your operating system. Staying with Windows? Going to be daring and try Linux? If a Windows person,do you want to stick with the version you have and know now, Or will you go Windows 8 when it's released in October?

    Lots and lots of though needs to be put into this,imo.

    And I am sure many are willing to help as much as we can.
    Good luck. May be the geek in my,but I've always ebjoyed laying the parts out on the table and 3-4 hours later giving it the first boot.
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  • Profile picture of the author Johnny12345
    The best thing about building your own computer is that you get to choose all the parts. Pre-built, mass merchandise computers might seem like a good deal, but they cut corners -- everywhere.

    You will always get a cheap video card, power supply, sound card, and motherboard.

    My advice? When you build, buy quality, name-brand parts. (Intel is your friend.) A couple years from now, you'll be glad you did.

    Building a desktop computer is easy. All you really need is a screwdriver. It's not rocket science. Windows will usually install the drivers for you via Plug & Play. It's easy. A good forum to ask questions at is HardwareGuys.com.

    Make CERTAIN to avoid static electricity when you assemble your computer. If possible, build it in a room WITHOUT carpeting. And when you install a part, make sure it's fully seated, but don't use excessive force. If it seems to require a lot of force, you're installing it wrong.

    I once had a problem with the computer I built. A part went bad. So I drove to Best Buy, bought a new part, and had it up and running in less than 3 minutes after I got home. It sure beats dragging it into a repair shop or shipping it back to the manufacturer and waiting for weeks -- especially if it's out of warranty.

    John
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    • Profile picture of the author seasoned
      Originally Posted by Johnny12345 View Post

      The best thing about building your own computer is that you get to choose all the parts. Pre-built, mass merchandise computers might seem like a good deal, but they cut corners -- everywhere.

      You will always get a cheap video card, power supply, sound card, and motherboard.

      My advice? When you build, buy quality, name-brand parts. (Intel is your friend.) A couple years from now, you'll be glad you did.

      Building a desktop computer is easy. All you really need is a screwdriver. It's not rocket science. Windows will usually install the drivers for you via Plug & Play. It's easy. A good forum to ask questions at is HardwareGuys.com.

      Make CERTAIN to avoid static electricity when you assemble your computer. If possible, build it in a room WITHOUT carpeting. And when you install a part, make sure it's fully seated, but don't use excessive force. If it seems to require a lot of force, you're installing it wrong.

      I once had a problem with the computer I built. A part went bad. So I drove to Best Buy, bought a new part, and had it up and running in less than 3 minutes after I got home. It sure beats dragging it into a repair shop or shipping it back to the manufacturer and waiting for weeks -- especially if it's out of warranty.

      John
      Most systems TODAY have the sound and video BUILT IN. It is often midrange. Not the BEST you could have, but also not the worst. Of course, you CAN get cards to replace them.

      They ALSO come with USB, and disk drive controllers. They almost ALL have IDE, but some have really high end drive controllers, and may even have RAID 5, BUILT IN!

      Things HAVE changed a LOT since computers about 12-15 years ago that came with NOTHING! You were lucky if the motherboards had ANYTHING besides the CPU.

      ALSO, powersupplies are better. Some very small cases may have limited power though. Some people STILL think smaller means less power.

      All said, last I knew, a $200 graphic card, $100 drive controller, and assorted I/O, and a nice sound card, could be on a nice motherboard with the ability to have cache, for $150 or even less. And $150, at least in 2000 dollars, could buy a nice board though they probably ranged in price from $100 to maybe $1000.

      So really, if you can get the case, motherboard, cpu, memory, disks, and powersupply(and the powersupply often comes with the case), you may find that you need nothing else for the computer. BTW don't forget the CPU heatsink. It often comes with the CPU, but make sure. The price of that can vary from maybe $15 to a few hundred also. A nice $50 or less one is usually MORE than adequate. The VERY cheap ones are old fashioned heatsinks. They are rare, and also often not good enough. The VERY expensive ones may have fluid run through a radiator, and are very much overkill. Usually a medium sized one with nice fins and a fan is fine.

      Steve
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      • Profile picture of the author steveproxy
        Originally Posted by seasoned View Post

        Most systems TODAY have the sound and video BUILT IN. It is often midrange. Not the BEST you could have, but also not the worst. Of course, you CAN get cards to replace them.

        They ALSO come with USB, and disk drive controllers. They almost ALL have IDE, but some have really high end drive controllers, and may even have RAID 5, BUILT IN!

        Things HAVE changed a LOT since computers about 12-15 years ago that came with NOTHING! You were lucky if the motherboards had ANYTHING besides the CPU.

        ALSO, powersupplies are better. Some very small cases may have limited power though. Some people STILL think smaller means less power.

        All said, last I knew, a $200 graphic card, $100 drive controller, and assorted I/O, and a nice sound card, could be on a nice motherboard with the ability to have cache, for $150 or even less. And $150, at least in 2000 dollars, could buy a nice board though they probably ranged in price from $100 to maybe $1000.

        So really, if you can get the case, motherboard, cpu, memory, disks, and powersupply(and the powersupply often comes with the case), you may find that you need nothing else for the computer. BTW don't forget the CPU heatsink. It often comes with the CPU, but make sure. The price of that can vary from maybe $15 to a few hundred also. A nice $50 or less one is usually MORE than adequate. The VERY cheap ones are old fashioned heatsinks. They are rare, and also often not good enough. The VERY expensive ones may have fluid run through a radiator, and are very much overkill. Usually a medium sized one with nice fins and a fan is fine.

        Steve
        I use heat sinking material over CPU , yet its not working properly . Do I need to replace CPU?
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        • Profile picture of the author seasoned
          Originally Posted by steveproxy View Post

          I use heat sinking material over CPU , yet its not working properly . Do I need to replace CPU?
          Basically, you need to have some heat sinking compound that is on the center of your cpu and clean heat sink material on your heat sink. The heat sink should have good sized fins with a good fan that can more the air to make sure the cpu doesn't exceed its operating temperature. MOST CPUs today won't allow themselves to get past a certain temperature.

          If your CPU gets to a certain temperature, and things can be maintained properly, it may just turn off or slow down a LOT. If it can't be maintained properly, or gets too hot, it will start being erratic. This may happen within a minute or two, or may take over an hour.

          It is hard to track though, because heat can also affect the memory or the motherboard and cause similar symptoms.

          A problem with memory MAY give a parity error, but a cpu problem could also cause that.

          Of course, if you have the CPU specs, and a fast thermometer, such as a laser one(used to check frying pan temperatures), you can check the temperature of the CPU. If it is too close to the maximum temperature, it would be a good idea to do something. If it is a memory problem, you may be able to add wait states and it may disappear.

          Steve
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      • Profile picture of the author Johnny12345
        Originally Posted by seasoned View Post

        Most systems TODAY have the sound and video BUILT IN.

        In my opinion, INTEGRATED components -- especially video cards -- are usually quite poor.

        For example, there's a HUGE difference in performance between a video card that uses SHARED system memory and one that uses DISCRETE memory.

        As I said earlier, building your own lets you choose exactly what you want. In my view, that's a HUGE benefit -- but opinions vary. Not everybody wants or needs maximum performance.

        John
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  • Profile picture of the author surzygyy
    Hello,

    I have recently build my own PC would recommend i7" / Intel® Core™ i7-3770K UNLOCKED 3.5~4.5Ghz + AMD Radeon HD7850 2GB grafics, about ram it is up to you ddr3 8gb will handle perfect. HD it is up to you. It should cost to you up to 1k $. Not sure if my post is helpful...
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    • Profile picture of the author seasoned
      Originally Posted by surzygyy View Post

      Hello,

      I have recently build my own PC would recommend i7" / Intel® Core™ i7-3770K UNLOCKED 3.5~4.5Ghz + AMD Radeon HD7850 2GB grafics, about ram it is up to you ddr3 8gb will handle perfect. HD it is up to you. It should cost to you up to 1k $. Not sure if my post is helpful...
      That adds a LITTLE complexity, and a LOT of the cost!

      As for future proof PCs? NEVER WILL HAPPEN!!!! Todays PCs are near 100% incompatible with ones 20 years ago! Oh SURE, they can be like 90% BACKWARD compatible for SOFTWARE! For hardware? FORGET IT! Even the POWER supply(Though amperages went down, voltages and stability are IDENTICAL) is nearly 100% incompatible! The connectors are different. And the old computers aren't forward compatible(Though many voltages and the main address and data lines are identical). Disk drives and cards are different. Even printers, that were the same for almost 30 years are different!

      The best you can hope for is one that may last 5 years of good usable life, and maybe 10 years of fair usable life. HECK, the first laptop I bought was 13 years ago. I can't get a new card, can't use the printer, can't use the floppy, can't use USB, and the CPU will likely not run a lot of new code. It was state of the art when I got it!

      Steve
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  • Profile picture of the author SheMale
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    • Profile picture of the author tagiscom
      Just watched this cool video, on building a higher end PC.

      I have built a couple, (less powerful PC,s) but still get nervous about the CPU installation!

      Might help!

      Certainly building it for $1500 is better than $3000 retail!!!



      Shane

      PS video does go for 1 hour 40 minutes.
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  • Profile picture of the author AgentHomes
    I taught myself how to build a PC using Youtube.

    I'd check out Tom's hardware review to understand the state of the current technology. Once you know what you want check out tiger direct, new egg and any local shops for the best prices.
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    • Profile picture of the author seasoned
      Originally Posted by AgentHomes View Post

      I taught myself how to build a PC using Youtube.

      I'd check out Tom's hardware review to understand the state of the current technology. Once you know what you want check out tiger direct, new egg and any local shops for the best prices.
      Youtube can be gold, or fools gold. CAREFUL! Tom's hardware is a good site though.

      Steve
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  • Profile picture of the author KimW
    Johnny 12345 is right about integrated video.
    Integrated sound on the other hand has come quite a long ways.
    If I was going to do a build today,I'd get a motherboard with integrated sound,but I'd still go for a mid range video card.
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  • Profile picture of the author KimW
    First question,will 2 USB ports be enough?
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  • Profile picture of the author seasoned
    Steven,

    The ad is a little confusing. The only way it makes sense, to start, is if there are SIX USB ports! YEAH, I know, it says 4, and kimw said 2. Apparently, there are 4 USB 2.0, and 2 USB 3.0. 3.0 are rarer and often not supported at full speed, but they are faster than the still very good 2.0. To tell you the truth, most probably won't go over the 2.0.

    It says 6 total ports, and all 6 to the rear, and then speaks of 3 headers, and it is expandable to 6. Anyway, I would go to the company site, but can't really do that now.

    BTW 6 total is probably fine. and 2 USB 3.0 are probably fine. I think maybe 4 is minimum, and I have been working with 3USB lately. 8-/

    Steve
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  • Profile picture of the author KimW
    Steve,
    You are correct. I missed both the USB 3 ports and the 2 USB2 ports located by the keyboard connector.
    I even went back to the ad's picture and looked again and missed them. It wasn't until I went to newegg where they had a better,imo, picture that I saw what you were talking about.
    My bad.
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    • Profile picture of the author seasoned
      Originally Posted by KimW View Post

      Steve,
      You are correct. I missed both the USB 3 ports and the 2 USB2 ports located by the keyboard connector.
      I even went back to the ad's picture and looked again and missed them. It wasn't until I went to newegg where they had a better,imo, picture that I saw what you were talking about.
      My bad.
      I was going by written specs, but THEY were poorly written. Going by the picture is bad. MY computer, for example, has the ones in front hidden by a door, and more in back.

      Steve
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  • Profile picture of the author KimW
    Probably.
    You will probably need to get some thermal paste too.Cheap but needed.
    Also, unless you already have a spare version of an operating system lying around you will need to add that to your list.
    Some might also suggest getting a static discharge wrist strap.
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    • Profile picture of the author Steven Wagenheim
      Originally Posted by KimW View Post

      Probably.
      You will probably need to get some thermal paste too.Cheap but needed.
      Also, unless you already have a spare version of an operating system lying around you will need to add that to your list.
      Some might also suggest getting a static discharge wrist strap.
      Kim, what is the thermal paste for?
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  • Profile picture of the author KimW
    The thermal paste is like a gel that you put on the bottom of the CPU and the motherboard to disspiate the heat that is produced when the computer is running. When you look at a processor, probably 99% of what you see is part of the heatsink and the actual processor is a small computer chip attached to it.

    Here is a page of google images that might explain what I'm trying to say a bit better:
    http://www.google.com/search?num=10&....1.Ih7AgDuJUuE
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    • Profile picture of the author Steven Wagenheim
      Originally Posted by KimW View Post

      The thermal paste is like a gel that you put on the bottom of the CPU and the motherboard to disspiate the heat that is produced when the computer is running. When you look at a processor, probably 99% of what you see is part of the heatsink and the actual processor is a small computer chip attached to it.

      Here is a page of google images that might explain what I'm trying to say a bit better:
      thermal paste - Google Search
      So I'm gluing the CPU to the mother board? It doesn't just snap into place.

      You can tell I know NOTHING about computers. LOL
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  • Profile picture of the author KimW
    lol, no, its more of an insulator than a glue...Its been a few years ( since I got sicck actually) since I've done a build,but last time I did mounting the cpu onto the motherboard did consist of basically "snapping" and/or "clamping" it in place.
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    • Profile picture of the author Steven Wagenheim
      Originally Posted by KimW View Post

      lol, no, its more of an insulator than a glue...Its been a few years ( since I got sicck actually) since I've done a build,but last time I did mounting the cpu onto the motherboard did consist of basically "snapping" and/or "clamping" it in place.
      Thanks. I can just imagine gluing my parts together.

      Well, I'm going to mull this over a bit and then decide on something. I really just
      hate being at the mercy of a a support tech.
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  • Profile picture of the author seasoned
    What the #$%^&*(_?!?!?!? Thermal paste is a CONDUCTOR, NOT an insulator, and it goes on TOP of the CPU to ensure a good THERMAL connection between the CPU and the heatsink. DON'T put ANY such product on the bottom of the CPU. If it gets on the pins, balls, or whatever, you could end up in TROUBLE!

    And Steven... Last I knew, they had ZIF(Zero Insertion force) sockets. You flip a lever, the cpu, which is generally polarized so it only fits ONE way, slips in, and you flip the lever back to clamp it into place. Of course, of the past 2 decades, the elctronics industry has decided to blow away practically ALL standards they can. One such standard is the type of connector. Some CPUs have like balls, and I think they clamp the other way. ATOM CPUs are soldered in. So who knows.

    The FIRST CPUs, at least the popular 8-16bit ones, had 40 pins, and a regular socket, and it was easy to damage them putting them in. New CPUs have hundreds of pins, so something had to change. Of course, some computers had ZIF sockets even for the 40 pin ones.

    BTW unless your system is grounded, and you touch it, and are in a clear area, DEFINITELY get a wrist strap! THAT is why so much OEM memory is garbage from fry's, they know, and care, NOTHING about ESD! A spark you feel could OBLITERATE a CPU! Under the microscope a formerly flat surface, of the chip, will look like a MOUNTAIN RANGE!

    Steve
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